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A walk around the ancient city of Petra, Jordan
Walk 6132

Country - Jordan

Author - Peter Steele

Length - 10.0 km / 6.3 miles

Grade - moderate

Photo from the walk - A walk around the ancient city of Petra, Jordan
Click image to visit gallery of 15 images.

This describes a walk around the remains of the ancient city of Petra in Jordan. It is intended as a walking guide taking in many of the points of interest in this world Heritage Site. It is not intended to replace a proper guide to the many antiquities which can be seen, although reference is made to a selection of these as waymarks along the suggested route as appropriate. The walk comprehends: quite remarkably rugged scenery; unique archaeological remains; some nerve-wracking scrambles up/down ancient tracks; a pilgrimage to the tomb of a fairly decent Roman; and opportunities for philosophical contemplation.

Strong boots, a good sun-cream and a shady hat are recommended. You should also note that there is considerable sections of uphill walking in this route and at certain times of the year this may feel harder due to the high daytime temperatures.

Description of the Walk

The proposed start of the walk is at the Visitors Centre in the lower part of the modern town of Petra which lies high on the right bank of the Wadi Musa as one faces the broken ridges of the Jabal al Khubtha. Pay the entrance fee and go through the gate and follow the road which runs a little south of east down into the wadi. It is roughly 0.93 km from the gate to the entrance to the Siq - see below. (Those wishing to conserve their energy may take a ride through the hills as far as the Khazna (the Treasury) in one of the horse-drawn gari which ply for hire at the site gate or rent a horse or donkey. However, be warned: the Roman pavement of the Siq (the name of the passage through the hills) is not now so smooth as it would have been in Roman times and the ride in any wheeled vehicle is pretty rough.) As you descend toward the wadi bed you will soon be passing examples of the ancient tombs carved in the living rock (predominantly rose-red sandstone) which are the defining feature of ancient Petra. (Note the 'crow stair case' decoration). Watch also for the mysterious cubic monuments on the right of the road as you go down. The original purpose of these antiquities is not known to the author, but undoubtedly they had some cultic significance to the Nabataeans who first settled the city.

The entrance to the Siq is blocked off by the ancient dam which was built to conserve the water which came down the Wadi Musa in the rainy season. Climb over this and into the Siq which is a cleft in the Jabal al Khubtha so narrow that for most of the way as it winds through the hills it is possible to walk in the shade of the precipitous cliffs which press in so closely on both sides as to obscure the sky. (Enjoy walking in the shade: there is not much ahead of you)!

Close examination of the walls of the Siq at chest/waist height will reveal the channels of the ancient leats which once carried water from the wadi into the city. The passage through the hills is about 1.18 km. Be prepared as you emerge from it for your first dramatic view of the Khazna which is (of course) not a Treasury at all, but the most ornate of example surviving of Petra's tombs carved from the cliff of the wadi as it widens out after its passage through the jabal.

From the Khazna proceed in a north-westerly direction up the dry bed of the wadi as far as the Roman theatre which lies on your left about 0.5 km distant. Here the wadi takes a line almost due north. Follow for @ 300m where it once more swings a little north of west. Here leave the wadi bed and continue north for a further 500 m along a very distinct track which climbs up over the low foot hills on the western face of the Jabal al Khubtha passing in front of the remarkable 'Urn', 'Corinthian' and 'Palace' Tombs and crossing the remains of the old north wall of the ancient city built by the Emperor Diocletian when he 'hardened' Rome's eastern frontier.

As the rough track you are on begins to descend into the Wadi al Mataba which is here aligned W-E turn roughly due east until you come to the Tomb of Sextus Florentinus, the Roman governor of Arabia under the Emperor Hadrian. This is about 350 m from the line of the Diocletianic wall. According to the pious inscription of his son above the tomb entrance – not discerned by the author - Florentinus chose to be buried at Petra rather than have his remains taken back to Italy so, despite being a colonial governor, he was obviously not a wholly bad egg. I would suggest a libation in good Tuscan wine (with which you should supply yourself before coming to Jordan) for the Gods of the Underworld and Sextus's gentle shade in case it still lingers in this hallowed spot.

Having completed these decencies retrace your steps west as far as the city wall and then proceed along the crest of the hills looking south over the Wadi Musa. Note: on the opposite hillside the remains of the forum built by the Emperor Trajan who incorporated Petra into the Empire in about 106 AD; the Nymphaeum (artificial fountain dedicated to the local Nymphs - i.e. female spirits associated with water) at the junction of the Wadi Musa and the Wadi Umm; and the colonnade of the main street of Roman Petra. (Nowadays all that can be seen of the Nymphaeum is a meaningless pile of rocks and an ancient thorn bush said to be over 400 years old. However, the colonnade is largely complete). Walk south of west roughly along the line of the walls until you descend into the Wadi Musa near the Tenemos (ornamental gates of the Roman city). (About 1.1 km from the Tomb of Sextus Florentinus).

Here you may cross a bridge over the Wadi al Ulayqa shortly after its junction with the Musa and pause for lunch at the Bedouin restaurant - the kebabs are delicious, but be sure to have a supply of Imodium. Inspect the museum if you wish - il ne vaut pas le voyage. Afterwards return to the Tenemos politely fending off advances from the camel boys who are waiting here to carry you up to the 'Hermitage further up the wadi in the hills for you are not going with the touristic herd, but will soon be striking off on your own where camels and even donkeys cannot go.

Climb out of the wadi behind the Qasr al Bint (Palace of the Nubile Girl), the largest free-standing monument in the Petra complex, to the top of the bank until you pick up a path which goes westward into the hills which fringe this side of the city behind a line of crags running roughly north-south. You will soon find yourself snaking up the side of a cliff in a most alarming fashion and, if you suffer from vertigo, do not cross a rather narrow wooden bridge which takes you up to the last stretch of the path to the site of the castle of the Leper King Baoduin marking the border of the Crusader Kingdom of Outremer. This is about o.5 km from the restaurant. (No stone now remains standing on another to mark the spot). Once your nerves have ceased to flutter pause to admire the view across Petra to the cliffs of Jabal al Khubtha and the Palace and Urn Tombs you passed earlier on your way to pay your respects at the relatively modest resting place of our friend S. Florentinus. Marvel also at the well nigh incredible bravery of the Franks and Saracens who were once prepared to battle to the death to determine possession of this dry rock outcrop - 'crede quia incredible est' as Florentinus would doubtless have observed.

Descend the way you came up (the climb down from the castle is, if anything, even more nerve-wracking than the ascent). Follow the path along the top of the Wadi Musa to the remains of the Zibb Fir'Awn (original purpose not yet discovered by the author). (300m from the Crusader castle as the crow flies - and don't you wish you might!) Here turn roughly south east and follow a track which eventually enters the Wadi Farasa. Here you will pass on your right the (Roman) 'Soldier's' Tomb and the 'Garden' Tomb both with elaborate dining areas for feasting the dead (triclinia). (About 1 km from Zibb Fir'Awn).

Soon after this the path leaves the wadi and begins to climb steeply up the hill slightly north of east along an ancient processional way, probably a Via Sacra to the holy places of the city at the hill-top - again a strong head for heights is required. (Watch out for little Bedouin girls leading donkeys down worn staircases carved in the rock with quite inadequate balustrades. These moppets take no heed of Feringhees or any other non-Bedouin visitors to their domain although their mamas may be happy to sell you dubious Roman coins or warm bottles of orange fanta in kiosks at the top of the path). Keep an eye open for the remains of the Lion Fountain - so-called from the bas-relief of such an animal from whose jaws water once spurted put of the cliff-face to refresh the pilgrims on their way to pay homage to the gods: it is now quite dry.

At the top of the hill you will pass the twin obelisks which are thought to represent the tutelary deities of the ancient Nabataeans who originally built Petra. After which there is a final (fairly easy) scramble up to the High Place of the Sacrifices where the blood of animal (and perhaps human) victims would once have been spilled to propitiate the Gods and allowed to soak away down a sink-hole in the altar which can still be observed. (Small children may be asked to spot the lustral cistern where the presiding priests would have washed their bloody hands: this may distract them from the more gruesome aspects of this ancient altar which they will find infinitely diverting). Pause here to contemplate the surrounding wilderness of rocky peaks and precipitous valleys and ponder on Man's desperation in his search for certainty in an uncertain world. (About 0.5 km from the Roman Soldier's Tomb).

Now is the time to retrace your steps down into the Wadi - again the decent is more heart-stopping even than the ascent! In the wadi follow a track proceeding along the foot of the hills generally east of north. You should pass the magnificent 'Renaissance' Tomb - so-called for its oddly Baroque style - and finally descend into the Wadi Musa at the foot of the hills running behind the Roman Theatre which you passed earlier. Then 'slowly trudge your weary way' back to the Khazna. If you are lucky you may there find a gari, donkey or camel to take you back to the main gate - for a fee. Otherwise walk through the Siq making the best pace you can as you do not want to be caught in the cleft after nightfall. (You are probably safe from human assault - this is Muslim country - but trying to make your way along the broken Roman pavement in the pitch dark is not to be recommended).

Suggested Maps

It is recommended you take a map with you when following a walk route. There is a reasonably reliable map of ancient Petra prepared by the Government of Jordan in 2005 showing contours and the main tracks around the site which appears to be on a scale of 1: 6000. This can probably be brought in any of the hotel shops in modern Petra. If you are not happy to take a chance on this there is a telephone number 079 542905 you might try in Amman, but the author does not know how helpful the experience of ringing this would be. (Do not do so on a Friday and probably not in Ramadan).

 

Stay Safe

Do enjoy yourself when out walking and choose a route that is within your capabilities especially with regard to navigation.

Do turn back if the weather deteriorates especially in winter or when visibility is poor.

Do wear the right clothing for the anticipated weather conditions. If the weather is likely to change for the worse make sure you have enough extra clothing in your pack.

Do tell someone where you are planning to walk especially in areas that see few other walkers.

Do take maps and other navigational aids. Do not rely on mobile devices in areas where reception is poor. Take spare batteries especially in cold weather.

Do check the weather forecast before leaving. The Met Office has a number of forecasts for walkers that identify specific weather risks.

Please Note - These walks have been published for use by site visitors on the understanding that Walking Britain is not held responsible for the safety or well being of those following the routes as described. It is worth reiterating the point that you should embark on a walk with the correct maps preferably at 1:25000 scale. This will enable any difficulties with route finding to be assessed and corrective action taken if necessary.

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